Rangefinder Basics for Hunters and Shooters

A laser rangefinder takes the guesswork out of distance, which is the biggest source of misses at longer range. Here is what the specs mean and what actually matters.

Rated range is not deer range

Box numbers are usually measured on a highly reflective target. Range on a deer or a dark tree is often half or less of that figure. If you need reliable readings on game at 400 yards, buy a unit rated well beyond that and look for a separate "deer" or "non-reflective" figure.

Angle compensation

When you shoot steeply uphill or downhill, gravity acts on the horizontal distance, not the line-of-sight distance. Angle-compensated rangefinders show the horizontal or "shoot-for" distance. For bowhunters in tree stands and hunters in the mountains, this feature is worth paying for.

Target modes

• First target reports the nearest object. It is useful through brush that you can see past, such as ranging a buck behind thin branches.
• Last target reports the farthest object. It is useful when the foreground is clear and the target sits in front of a backdrop.
• Scan mode updates readings continuously as you pan, which helps with moving game.

Beam divergence

A tighter beam hits a smaller spot at distance, so it is less likely to read the hillside behind your target. Better units publish this spec; smaller numbers are better.

Display and optics

Red OLED displays are easier to see in dim light than black LCDs. Magnification of 6x to 7x is standard. Look for a diopter so the display is sharp for your eye.

Ballistic models

Higher-end units can store a ballistic profile and tell you the holdover or dial value, and some connect to a phone app. They are excellent for long-range shooters. For most hunters inside 300 yards, a good angle-compensated unit is enough.

Practice ranging objects in your backyard and on walks. You will learn your unit's limits before it matters. We list rangefinder discounts on our daily deals page when they appear.